Routes
Routes
The routes on this page are built from towns and types of place (a craft museum, a workshop, an old town centre) rather than from addresses and names. We give no distances, journey times or timetables: they depend on the season, the day of the week and how you choose to travel. All three routes share one idea: time to talk with the maker matters more than the number of places ticked off, and the order of stops can always be changed to suit the journey and the weather.
A good route to the craftspeople is like good embroidery: there are not many stitches, but each one is in its proper place.
How the routes were put together: each can be done independently, and the stops are described as towns and types of place, without naming organisations or transport companies.
A day near Moscow: painting and shawls
Zhostovo and Pavlovsky Posad: metal, brush and printed pattern.
Early start
Set off early: the day is short and there are two stops. Check your way back before you even leave home.
Zhostovo: craft museum
Begin with the exhibition to see how the trays and their patterns have changed over time. It makes it easier to understand what you are looking at in the workshop.
Zhostovo: workshop
If the workshop welcomes visitors, watch how the design gradually appears under the brush. Take photos only with permission.
Transfer and lunch
Between the two stops allow a relaxed hour for the journey and a meal, so the second half of the day isn't a rush.
Pavlovsky Posad: old centre
A walk through the streets of a small Moscow-region town where printed shawls have long been part of local history.
Pavlovsky Posad: craft museum
Look at shawls from different periods and notice how the pattern repeats across the cloth. Check the visiting arrangements in advance.
A weekend on the Volga: Khokhloma and Gorodets painting
Semyonov and Gorodets: two schools of painting on wood in the Nizhny Novgorod region.
Semyonov: craft museum
Khokhloma painting is historically linked to the former Semyonov district of the old Nizhny Novgorod province. The exhibition shows how its gold, red and black colours work together.
Semyonov: workshop
Watch how the brush leads the pattern across the wood. If you would like to try it yourself, arrange a class in advance.
Evening and rest
Don't overload the first day: after the workshop it is good simply to take a stroll and let your impressions settle.
Gorodets: old centre
An old town with unhurried streets. Mornings here are best begun with a walk rather than in a museum hall.
Gorodets: craft museum and workshop
Gorodets painting has its own recognisable handwriting. Compare it with Khokhloma: the difference will tell you more about the crafts than any lecture.
An unhurried trip home
Pack your purchases before you leave rather than at the last minute, and allow spare time for the journey back.
The North: Vologda and lace
A trip of several days to see Vologda bobbin lace.
First day: old centre
Start with a walk through the historic part of Vologda. The northern town invites a slower pace, and you won't feel like hurrying here.
Craft museum
Vologda lace is made with bobbins. In the exhibition you can study the patterns up close and see how much patience lies behind each one.
Workshop or class
Watch the threads interlace and listen to the bobbins clicking. If classes are held, find out about signing up on the official website.
A free day
Leave one day unplanned: for the northern weather, a second walk or simply some rest.
Packing up
Fold lace and shawls loosely, without sharp creases, in a clean bag or box.
Adapting the route to suit you
- With children, choose one stop instead of two and find out in advance whether there is a class for their age
- Palekh in the Ivanovo region can be a trip of its own or an add-on to the Nizhny Novgorod route if time allows
- In winter, cut down on transfers: daylight is shorter and the roads need more attention
- On public holidays craft museums are crowded, so weekdays are better for a calm visit
- If you are driving, don't leave a long drive for the evening after a full day in workshops
Read next
- Destinations
Gzhel, Zhostovo and Pavlovsky Posad, Sergiev Posad, Semyonov and Gorodets, Palekh, Vologda: where to go.
- What to see
Crafts of the Moscow region, Nizhny Novgorod painting, Palekh miniatures and Vologda lace: what to see.
- Getting there
Local trains, long-distance trains, car and bus: how to reach the craftspeople and get fragile purchases home.
Sources
- Encyclopaedic reference works on Russian folk crafts
- Websites of craft museums and workshops: check timetables and visiting rules on the official websites
- The guide's own editorial material
This guide describes trips to folk-craft centres in general terms. Museum and workshop opening arrangements, workshop class conditions and train and bus timetables change, so check them on official websites shortly before you set off.